Rosemary Apple Cake

To give complexity to a cake, whether to contrast or to compliment its flavors and textures, we build dimensions into it.  One method is to add layers after the cake is done baking, such as frosting.  Another way is to bake separate layers simultaneously.  Because layers require different settings to be correctly cooked, the challenge is how to get everything to come out just right at the same time.

The tarte Tatin, a French apple tart invented by the Tatin sisters, employs an up-side-down method, where apples are caramelized in a skillet and baked alongside the puff pastry.  It is then inverted after cooking.  Because the apples are cooked beneath the pastry as opposed to being exposed to the heat atop, they are not at risk of being burnt.  Combined with caramelization ahead of baking, they give the desirable flavors and textures – tender, sweet, and buttery, while the puff pastry, being baked atop, stays flaky and crisp.

This apple cake follows the same method for the tarte Tatin, but with a cake base instead of a puff pastry base.  The same principle applies: baked atop the apples, the cake rises properly and is soft and fluffy, while the apples cook beneath so that they are tender, sweet, and caramelized.  The rosemary scent is distinct and strongly present here.  You can substitute with store bought applesauce, but it won’t give the additional rosemary flavor in the cake.

An alternative to decorating with frosting is using real flowers and fruits.  Here I peeled the apples into long ribbons, which were then twirled snuggly into a rose-like flowerlet.  To soften the peels for twirling, blanch them very quickly in boiling water.  It takes a little bit of practice, but it’s a nice way to salvage apple peels.

Ingredients
Apple topping
2 large sprigs rosemary
2 large or ~1 lb apples, peeled, cored, and chopped
4 tbsp or ½ stick butter
¾ cup brown sugar

Equipment: 10-inch oven safe skillet, such as cast iron skillet

Instructions
Applesauce: Cook all ingredients for the applesauce over low heat in a covered saucepan for 10 min until the apple is soft.  Let cool, then remove the rosemary sprig and purée into applesauce consistency.

Apple topping: In the 10-inch cast iron skillet, over medium heat, melt the 4 tbsp of butter and the brown sugar together, stirring frequently until the sugar is liquefied and the mixture starts to bubble.  Turn off the heat and arrange the rosemary sprigs across the skillet.  Place the apple pieces atop the caramel and the rosemary sprigs.

Cake: Sift the dry ingredients together.  In a separate bowl, whisk the eggs with the sugar until pale and frothy, add the softened butter and continue to whisk until light and fluffy, and then the applesauce.  Finally, fold in the flour mixture, ⅓ at time; do not overmix.

Pour the cake mixture atop the caramelized apples.  50 minutes @ 350F.  10 minutes after the cake is done baking, run a knife around the cake to release it from the skillet. Place a serving plate atop the skillet.  Using oven mitts to cover your hands, flip the two over simultaneously until the cake releases.